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PearlsOnly Written by: Norma Jones
Tahitian pearls tend to be much larger than traditional white pearls. Their distinctive color and metallic sheen also sets them apart.
We'll start with a brief history then on to pearl specifics and value factors. Lastly, we'll look at where to shop for Tahitian cultured pearls.
A Brief History Of Tahitian Pearls
European records of Tahitian pearls date back to the late 1700's. Natural black pearls were found in large sea oysters harvested for both food and their decorative shells. By the late 1800's the natural oysters became scarce and faced extinction. In response, pioneers labored to develop successful culturing of Tahitian pearls.
In the early 1960's, the Tahitian government initiated a revitalization. In that decade, pioneers Jean-Marie Domard, Jean-Claude Brouilette, Jacques and Hubert Rosenthal and Robert Wan all worked with new techniques to make Tahitian pearl culturing a reality as well as a viable industry.
Today, the Tahitian black pearl is a mainstay in the fine jewelry market place and has become a major export of French Polynesia.
Tahitian Cultured Pearls At A Glance
1. Size range: 8 millimeters to 17 millimeters (or 0.315 in to 0.669 in)
2. Average size: 10 millimeters to 11 millimeters (or 0.413 in)
3. Growth time: 22 – 28 months
4. Oyster: Pinctada margaritifera cumingi or Black Lipped oysters
5. Color range: Grays to deep blacks, pearl color cannot be enhanced or altered prior to export.
6. Regulations require that Tahitian cultured pearls have a minimum average of 0.8mm nacre thickness.
Tahitian Cultured Pearl Value Factors
Values are dependant on both visible factors of the specific pearl as well as the entire strand. These factors are:
1) Luster
2) Shape or Roundness
3) Surface Cleanliness
4) Matching
5) Size
6) Color
1. Luster
Luster is the most important factor when determining the pearl value. Luster or shine is how well a pearl reflects. An example is a mirror. An outstanding luster will show a mirror-like shine and very sharp image reflection. Only a rare handful will have this outstanding luster. In addition, a deep metallic shine makes Tahitian luster especially unique.
To look for a good luster, hold the pearls at a distance where you can clearly and comfortably see your reflection – usually about six to seven inches away. Can you see your eyes differentiated from your face? What other background can you see? If the reflection is clear and crisp, then, the luster is good.
2. Shape or Roundness
Lustrous Tahitian pearls are best known for their large round pearls as they are nucleated with round beads. However, only about 40% are round and an additional 20% are symmetrical. As a result, the rounder the pearl, the more value that pearl has. Alternate shapes such as drops and baroque are also prized.
As these pearls are significantly larger, each of the shapes differences are more pronounced. In addition it takes approximately five to six years from oyster larvae collection to pearl harvest. As a result, each and every pearl is valued greatly.
Round - The most famous is the large and very round Tahitian pearl. These are most prized by collectors. The shape is determined by visual inspection.
Off round - The next shape is off round pearl. These can seem round to the first or fast glance, however on closer examination, the pearls will look slightly off round.
Drop - Drop pearls are symmetrical with one end elongated like a drop of water. Drop pearls are preferred when a single pearl is highlighted such as the centerpiece of a specially designed necklace or for enhancers, earrings and pendants.
Baroque - Baroque Tahitians are not symmetrical and have a various unique shapes. Their uniqueness makes them prized by some collectors.
Circled - A subset of a baroque pearl is the circled pearl. These pearls have grooves or rings that circle all the way around the pearl. These circles allow the pearl to pick up and reflect extra color and light
3. Surface Cleanliness
The next pearl value factor is the cleanliness of the body or surface of the pearl. A pearl is more valuable when it shows less visible spotting. Pearls are a naturally formed organic gem so some minor surfaces blemishes are perfectly acceptable. Set jewelry should take into account the position of blemishes. For example, drill holes and settings can help hide any surface blemishes.
4. Matching
As each individual Tahitian pearl can take five to six years to grow from oyster larvae to pearl harvest, matching is a very important factor.
To find just two to match for earrings requires sorting through thousands of pearls. As a result, a well matched necklace or jewelry set is highly valued.
When judging for well matched pearls, simply look at the entire strand. There will be just a slight variation as pearls are natural gems. There should be no obvious differences or anomalies. The variation should be pleasing and complementary. Some prefer a lot of variation in both color and size.
5. Size
The size of the pearl also does effects value. A larger pearl with similar other value factors will be more valuable than a smaller one. However, there is a size range where values increase exponentially. Tahitian pearls average between 10mm to 11mm. As a result, pearls at or under that size range are more readily available. When the size range increases to 11mm to 12mm, subsequent 12mm to 13mm and greater than 13mm ranges, the value increases dramatically.
The largest on record as of 1998 is 26.95mm. That's bigger than an inch!
6. Color
Tahitian pearls cannot be color treated prior to export. After harvest, the pearls are lightly cleaned, dried then gently buffed.
Tahitian pearls are more easily noticeable as a result of their darker colors and metallic shine. In addition to the main body color, some of the pearls also display a highly desired prismatic or rainbow effect called orient. Next, the overtone is the subtle color the pearl reflects.
The color you choose should be based on wearer's coloring. Hold different colored pearls to the wearer's face to see which best reflects her. Some prefer a range or variation of color across the strand and set.
Black - Deep and dark lustrous black is the most recognizable color of the Tahitian pearls.
Gray - Most of the Tahitian cultured pearls will fall into the range of gray - from dark grays that are almost black to lighter ones that are almost silver.
Aubergine - Aubergine is the French word for eggplant. This color designation is used to describe pearls with a purple shine.
Pistachio - Pistachio describes pearls with lighter yellowish, green shine.
Peacock – Peacock is one of the most valued colors. It is dark green to blue gray with a shine reminiscent of a peacock's tail feathers.
Silver - A lighter gray or silver Tahitian pearl is less dark than the traditional black. The color is lighter and can allow for a brighter shine.
Where To Buy?
Very few strands with very high ratings in all the above value factors are regularly available on the fine jewelry market. As a result, be ready to research and shop around. I personally like online stores as they tend to have less overhead expenses passed on to you, the customer. This often results in lower prices. However, it is very helpful to see and touch real strands as well.
Here are a few factors to look for when choosing where to buy to buy your pearls
A. Friendly and knowledgeable staff
B. Good and varied selection of pearls
C. Excellent return policy – Minimum of 30 days for a full refund without restocking fees.
About the Author:
Norma Jones is a GIA certified Pearls expert and the Vice President of Sales and Marketing at www.PearlsOnly.com. PearlsOnly is an internet based eCommerce business that provides high quality pearl jewelry direct to consumers. Our goal is complete customer satisfaction with the best selection of the finest pearls anywhere. We leverage our multinational presences to offer our clients high quality pearls, with above-and-beyond customer service at incredible prices. Visit us online at http://www.PearlsOnly.com or call us at 1(888)834-4148.
